Thursday, September 17, 2009

Chris Malloy

The oldest of the three brothers, Chris is a big-picture visionary, and acts as the spark plug in the Malloy clan motor. He likes water (to play in, drink, and live near), river mouths, books and time on his 7’4” Liddle. He's a creative, design, name it, Chris is into it. An advocate for sustainable living and surfing roots, Chris opts to still paddle into some of the largest surf imaginable. A true waterman and surf visionary, not to mention adecent harmonica player, too! When asked why he doesn’t get scared in huge surf, Chris replies, “Well, you gotta love the wipeout as much as everything else. You have to think ‘this is FUN’ instead of panicking.”

On the Environment
“You can’t be a surfer and not see the impact. Because you are dealing with a pure source that is next to streets and roads, it’s really obvious to see where the trash and dirty water come from. In the past, I really felt a calling to become involved but it was really frustrating because, these group meetings that I went to, it seemed like there were a lot of problems within the groups that were supposed to be offering solutions. It always seemed like the work revolved around a marketing ploy, which is frustrating.

“I have been involved in some really fun stuff, and I think really productive stuff, that was done on a small scale.
Patagonia supports grassroots initiatives where the small groups are the ones that can really make a difference and those are hard to find in the surfing world. So that has become a motivating factor for me, to really help make a difference through education and starting on a smaller level – making a difference that way.”

As Chris learns more about sustainable environmental practices he’s trying (like us all) to implement them more and more into his life. For example, he helped his dad build a strawbale structure using the hay grown on his folks’ ranch. He’s also learning more about organic gardening and composting by keeping a garden at home with his wife.

Live Simply
“The best things in life are the simplest things. Sometimes I ask myself why I paddle out, catch a wave and paddle back out, over and over again, like a dog? It just feels good – simple as that.”

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